Herpetological trip to Portugal and Spain
January 29th – February 9th 2025
Unless specified otherwise, all pictures (c) of Jeroen Speybroeck.
Gippner et al. 2024 inspired us (Loïc van Doorn, Max van Elsen and me) to dedicate a trip to the rich variation within fire salamanders of the Iberian Peninsula. While I had spend quite some time in the wet northern parts of Spain, large parts of Portugal and western Central Spain were fairly unknown to me. Some places I had only visited long ago, such as the wonderful
Chioglossa mines, back in 1999. On top of that, a newly described marbled newt taxon sparked my interest. Lastly, I hoped to get a chance of seeing some species of which I had only seen one or two specimens in the past.
Generally mild temperatures and preceding rains surely must have helped, as we were able to find high numbers of amphibians, including 173 Fire Salamanders
Salamandra salamandra. More often than not, it felt like we were in early Spring, rather than Winter.
search sites & hotels
Thanks for info go to Rafael Vasquez Graña, Pim Arntzen, Bobby Bok, Wouter Beukema, Íñigo Martínez-Solano, and Guillaume Gomard.
January 29th
We flew from Charleroi to Lisbon, arriving comfortably in the afternoon and driving immediately to the vicinity of Évora. A decent amount of rain had hit the area the night before, so we had high hopes. Loïc knew of a man-made ditch which acts as an amphibian death trap, from which we retrieved a Western Spadefoot Toad
Pelobates cultripes, a couple of Sharp-ribbed Newts
Pleurodeles waltl, and fifteen Fire Salamanders
Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South). Underneath lids and hatches, Moorish Geckoes
Tarentola mauritanica popped up as the trip’s first reptiles. To my taste, the salamanders in this area are among the most remarkable examples of the
Salamandra genus.
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes
Sharp-ribbed Newt Pleurodeles waltl
Sharp-ribbed Newt Pleurodeles waltl
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
After dark, more rain came falling down, as we tried to find the famous weird salamanders near Grândola. Hiking some potential spots was not too productive, but delivered a few species – Maltzan’s Newt
Lissotriton maltzani, Portuguese Parsley Frog
Pelodytes atlanticus, Natterjack Toad
Epidalea calamita and a first, not too attractive Iberian Midwife Toad
Alytes cisternasii. Then, we cruised a single fire salamander, for which ‘unattractive’ applied even more.
Iberian Midwife Toad Alytes cisternasii
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
January 30th
Our second day was all about
Triturus rudolfi. We explored several sites between Lisbon and Aveiro, finding the new taxon at three, often accompanied by Maltzan’s Newt and Fire Salamander larvae. The terra typica temporal pond held water (packed with spadefoot eggs), but daytime was not the ticket to spot the newts here.
Maltzan’s Newt Lissotriton maltzani
Rudolf’s Marbled Newt Triturus rudolfi
Rudolf’s Marbled Newt Triturus rudolfi
Rudolf’s Marbled Newt Triturus rudolfi
After dark, we first explored dirt road puddles in the dunes south of Aveiro. Apart from newts (including Palmate Newt
Lissotriton helveticus) and salamander larvae, we found two terrestrial-phase salamanders and our first Spiny Toad
Bufo spinosus.
Rudolf’s Marbled Newt Triturus rudolfi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (South)
Palmate Newt Lissotriton helveticus
Procambarus clarkii
Spiny Toad Bufo spinosus
Natterjack Toad Epidalea calamita
A flooded meadow offered opportunities for parsley frog photography. Throughout the trip, we would hear and/or see three parsley frog species in full reproduction mode.
Portuguese Parsley Frog Pelodytes atlanticus
Portuguese Parsley Frog Pelodytes atlanticus
A seemingly uninteresting eucalyptus plantation along a brook infested with invasive crayfish offered Common Midwife Toad
Alytes obstetricans lusitanicus and Iberian Tree Frog
Hyla molleri.
Iberian Water Frog Pelophylax perezi
Common Midwife Toad Alytes obstetricans lusitanicus
Common Midwife Toad Alytes obstetricans lusitanicus
Common Midwife Toad Alytes obstetricans lusitanicus
Iberian Tree Frog Hyla molleri
Iberian Tree Frog Hyla molleri
January 31st
Before heading further north and crossing the Douro River, we went to find a usual small lacertid lizard target of seaside boardwalks, and got Schreiber’s Green Lizard
Lacerta schreiberi as a bonus.
I fall for lizards - © Loïc van Doorn
Carbonell’s Wall Lizard Podarcis carbonelli
Schreiber’s Green Lizard Lacerta schreiberi
Only a little over a kilometer inland, a drystone wall delivered the more ubiquitous wall lizard species of the region.
Geniez’s Wall Lizard Podarcis virescens
Geniez’s Wall Lizard Podarcis virescens
Then, it was time to move on to one of the highlights of the trip – a set of abandoned mine galleries where the Romans dug for gold in ancient times. First, the widespread lizard of this area, unfortunately none of their colorful males.
Bocage’s Wall Lizard Podarcis bocagei
Finding the gallery entrances took a while. The first only held an Iberian Stream Frog
Rana iberica.
Iberian Stream Frog Rana iberica
The second gallery went deeper into the mountain, branching off into several side galleries. First, the larvae got more and more numerous, then we could spot some eggs on the walls, and finally we also found eight adult and juvenile Golden-striped Salamanders
Chioglossa lusitanica longipes. I had visited this place before back in September 1999. While many more eggs had already hatched by this time of year, it was absolutely great to be back.
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica longipes
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica longipes
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica longipes
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica longipes
We drove further north just for a short while, spending our night search again in a coastal dune area. This turned out to be our most productive night for Fire Salamanders, finding 86 adults covering considerable variation in pattern and colour. Other species included Western Spadefoot Toad, Iberian Water Frog
Pelophylax perezi, Palmate Newt, Common Midwife Toad
A. o. boscai, Marbled Newt
Triturus marmoratus, and our first Iberian Painted Frogs
Discoglossus galganoi.
Marbled Newt Triturus marmoratus
Iberian Painted Frog Discoglossus galganoi galganoi
Iberian Painted Frog Discoglossus galganoi galganoi
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes
Common Midwife Toad Alytes obstetricans boscai
Marbled Newt Triturus marmoratus
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra - “molleri” (North) x gallaica
February 1st
As a first step in moving east and leaving the western Portuguese coastal region, we headed towards Serra da Estrela. A stop along the way offered a second Schreiber’s Green Lizard, our first Bosca’s Newt
Lissotriton boscai, Iberian Stream Frog and the local wall lizard species.
Lusitanian Wall Lizard Podarcis lusitanicus
Lusitanian Wall Lizard Podarcis lusitanicus
Waiting until dark to get our amphibian desiderata for this area, we strolled for a bit near the Lagoa Comprida – an interesting herping spot in September 2005, but fully covered in snow now.
Before and after dark, our attention went to one of the most attractive water tanks imaginable. We were not disappointed – with 13 Fire Salamanders, seven Golden-striped Salamanders, Iberian Stream Frog, Bosca’s Newt and Marbled Newt about all the amphibian species the area has to offer turned up.
Iberian Stream Frog Rana iberica
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica lusitanica
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica lusitanica
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (North) or N-S hybrid
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (North) or N-S hybrid
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (North) or N-S hybrid
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (North) or N-S hybrid
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (North) or N-S hybrid
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra “molleri” (North) or N-S hybrid
February 2nd
We drove into Spain. Humidity was still on our side, but temperatures clearly dropped while advancing away from the milder Atlantic climate. Nevertheless, we managed to uncover the most wanted Fire Salamanders and other amphibian species.
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bejarae (West) & Marbled Newt Triturus marmoratus
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bejarae (West)
After dark, we had a late night, with more luck north than south of Plasencia.
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bejarae (West) x (East)
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bejarae (West) x (East)
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bejarae (West) x (East)
Last stop was a beautiful large cattle pond with Sharp-ribbed Newt and Southern Marbled Newt
Triturus pygmaeus. A Western Spadefoot Toad emerged from its subsurface hideout, as torrential rain started. Along with numerous Sharp-ribbed Newts, Spiny Toads and Natterjacks Toads, our first Stripeless Tree Frog
Hyla meridionalis hopped across the road.
Southern Marbled Newt Triturus pygmaeus lusitanicus
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes
Stripeless Tree Frog Hyla meridionalis
February 3rd
We got some intel on a chance of finding Fire Salamander
Salamandra salamandra almanzoris. While this subspecies is most famous for its darker representatives from the Gredos mountains, a number of medium elevation populations with more yellow pigmentation exist. As I had seen many of the Gredos ones in the summer of 2023, I was keen on seeing some of these more 'regular-looking'
almanzoris.
First, we didn’t find much more than the local wall lizard species.
Guadarrama Wall Lizard Podarcis guadarramae
Guadarrama Wall Lizard Podarcis guadarramae
After several hours of searching, Loïc and I each managed to finally find a salamander.
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra almanzoris
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra almanzoris
After this well-deserved result, we continued further south, hoping to find Fire Salamander
Salamandra salamandra bejarae (East). Not enough rain and fairly cold, so we had to settle for larvae.
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bejarae (East)
A roadside ditch held Western Spadefoot Toad, Sharp-ribbed Newt, Natterjack Toad, and Parsley Frog
Pelodytes punctatus.
eggs of Parsley Frog Pelodytes punctatus hespericus
February 4th
While we originally intended to do a longer drive south to the wider surroundings of Málaga, a suitable weather forecast drew us to the Sierra de Cazorla. My single visit dating back to 2006, I was keen on revisiting this beautiful place and having a go at finding its endemic lizard. This turned out to be not too difficult.
Spanish Algyroides Algyroides marchi
Spanish Algyroides Algyroides marchi
Geniez’s Wall Lizard Podarcis virescens & Spanish Algyroides Algyroides marchi
Moorish Gecko Tarentola mauritanica
After dark, it was too cold for any decent amphibian activity, but man-made structures helped to find two individuals of a species I had also only seen just once as a single specimen.
Southern Midwife Toad Alytes dickhilleni
Southern Midwife Toad Alytes dickhilleni
Much drier than the other areas we had visited until now, we had little hope of finding salamanders, until Loïc saw a head sticking out of a wall. Yet another subspecies added to our list!
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra morenica
February 5th
The daylight portion of this day was all about lizards, as we made a slight southeastern detour to Cabo de Gata. A deep Morocco-style well we could not enter without exiting issues also held several dead snakes and a still alive Horseshoe Whip Snake
Hemorrhois hippocrepis.
waiting for nevadensis - (c) Max Van Elsen
Sierra Nevada Ocellated Lizard Timon nevadensis
again no decent photo of my lizard nemesis … – Edwards’s Psammodromus Psammodromus edwarsianus
Fringe-toed Lizard Acanthodactylus erythrurus
Algerian Psammodromus Psammodromus algirus
Spanish Wall Lizard Podarcis hispanicus - male
Spanish Wall Lizard Podarcis hispanicus - female
On our way back west, we stopped to check out the non-native Italian Wall Lizard
Podarcis siculus population of Almería.
Italian Wall Lizard Podarcis siculus
After dark, we found ten Southern Midwife Toads
Alytes dickhilleni in a water channel.
Southern Midwife Toad Alytes dickhilleni
Southern Midwife Toad Alytes dickhilleni
Southern Midwife Toad Alytes dickhilleni
Southern Midwife Toad Alytes dickhilleni
Then, it was time for ten Mediterranean Chameleons
Chamaeleo chamaeleon.
Mediterranean Chameleon Chamaeleo chamaeleon
Mediterranean Chameleon Chamaeleo chamaeleon
Mediterranean Chameleon Chamaeleo chamaeleon
February 6th
Moving west, we noticed we were entering areas with more humid conditions again. A small hike to a water source in the far eastern part of the range of the Fire Salamander subspecies
Salamandra salamandra longirostris delivered hundreds of larvae, and after a while also two adult salamanders.
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra longirostris
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra longirostris
After that, we drove into the wonderful Alcornocales area and flipped a lot of stones, uncovering Iberian Parsley Frog
Pelodytes ibericus, Iberian Worm Lizard
Blanus cinereus, Iberian False Smooth Snake
Macroprotodon brevis, Moorish Gecko and Turkish Gecko
Hemidactylus turcicus. Our 8th and final wall lizard species was out and about.
Iberian False Smooth Snake Macroprotodon brevis
Iberian False Smooth Snake Macroprotodon brevis
Iberian Worm Lizard Blanus cinereus
Iberian Parsley Frog Pelodytes ibericus
Iberian Parsley Frog Pelodytes ibericus
Turkish Gecko Hemidactylus turcicus
Vaucher’s Wall Lizard Podarcis vaucheri
After dark, we found (but could not photograph) the local subspecies of Iberian Painted Frog
Discoglossus galganoi jeanneae and Southern Marbled Newt
Triturus pygmaeus pygmaeus, completing our observations of the entire amphibian species and subspecies list of the visited part of the peninsula. A single active Fire Salamander was also found under rainless, but not too terrible conditions. Two juvenile Viperine Snake
Natrix maura also popped up at long last. The air was filled with the calls of Iberian Parsley Frogs, as well as Stripeless Tree Frogs.
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra longirostris
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra longirostris
Viperine Snake Natrix maura
To conclude a long day, we found another nine chameleons.
Mediterranean Chameleon Chamaeleo chamaeleon
February 7th
West again, but first a (failed) attempt at finding Lataste’s Viper
Vipera latastei arundana.
We skipped Doñana NP and entered back into Portugal. As rain started to fall, we had high expectations for our final Fire Salamander subspecies. During the clouded and rainy day, we visited a spot for terrapins, finding Moorish Terrapin
Mauremys leprosa and Red-eared Slider
Trachemys scripta elegans. After dark, we explored the Monchique hill in southwestern Portugal and found a nice total of 27 Fire Salamanders, along with Maltzan’s Newt, Stripeless Tree Frog, Iberian Water Frog and Spiny Toad.
Maltzan’s Newt Lissotriton maltzani
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra crespoi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra crespoi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra crespoi
February 8th
Lowland rock flipping in the extreme southwest of Portugal was not very productive until Loïc uncovered two young Ladder Snakes
Zamenis scalaris from underneath the same rock. Then, we drove back east. As I had never seen an Iberian European Pond Terrapin
Emys orbicularis occidentalis before, we spent a lot of time scanning terrapins. After tens, or rather hundreds, of Moorish Terrapins and Red-eared Sliders, we finally spotted a single pond terrapin near Faro.
Ladder Snake Zamenis scalaris
Ladder Snake Zamenis scalaris
finally ! – European Pond Terrapin Emys orbicularis (and Red-eared Slider Trachemys scripta elegans ) – © Loïc van Doorn
As we had to catch an early flight back home the next morning and we all wanted to find some more Iberian Midwife Toads, we spent our final nocturnal search just a little bit north of Faro. We ended up finding three, as well as two bonus salamanders and some painted frogs and other species. A final male Fire Salamander was a fitting final find of a highly successful trip.
Iberian Midwife Toad Alytes cisternasii
Iberian Midwife Toad Alytes cisternasii
Iberian Midwife Toad Alytes cisternasii
Iberian Painted Frog Discoglossus galganoi galganoi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra crespoi
Species list
